Book Review: The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good
Elizabeth L. Cline, The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good, Plume, $17, 368 pp., August 2019.
Having studied and now being involved in the industry for many years, I was well aware of the conversations we as a community were having about fashion: its influence on people and detrimental effect on the environment. These discussions often reach a familiar roadblock with the following statements: I cannot afford sustainable brands. I don’t enjoy thrifting. I want to express my individuality through new clothes without breaking the bank. But this begs the question: should consumers be held fully accountable for the perpetual cycle of unsustainable fast fashion?
No. Nor should anyone feel like they have to constantly sacrifice their stylistic agency to change the environment for the better.
These thoughts cover only a few pieces of this ever-growing discussion. Admittedly, I was skeptical before reading Elizabeth L. Kline’s follow-up to, Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion. Can one book cover how much people can do for the environment without sacrificing their stylistic agency? I found myself reading Cline’s book – flying through it actually – within a week. I learned the many resources which the public can access, and the various techniques one can learn when they want to make their clothes last longer. Most importantly, however, I learned how we can all enjoy clothes and experiment with our styles guilt-free.
Cline's book provides an extensive guide toward building a more thought out and sustainable closet. She discussed six main parts, starting with the number one culprit: fast fashion. In “Goodbye, Fast Fashion!” it is not as simple as discarding the clothes or donating them to charity. Rather, Cline goes further by guiding us through a number of options when clearing out our overflowing wardrobe. She builds awareness of what we have in front of us and teaches us ways to assess the use-value behind each article of clothing before making any decisions.
“She builds awareness of what we have in front of us and teaches us ways to assess the use-value behind each article of clothing before making any decisions.”
The second part, “The Art of Less” can be read as a “clichéd” part of her book by some. We all understand that clothes need to be retailed at a higher price in order to pay a living wage for the people who make them. Good quality fabrics and trims made under ethical standards are not cheap either. But, it can isolate those who do not earn an income to allow themselves these types of purchases. Thus, it falls under the risk of people asserting that sustainable fashion cannot cater to everyone. Cline states her case effectively, with clear diagrams showing finish details which can make or break the longevity of a garment. That affordable dress will be perfect for this summer, but will it last for the next summer without stretching or breaking a seam? “The Fashion Fast” chapter is organized like a “diet for our shopping habits,” setting out manageable activities, which includes social media posts and challenges for the consumer. By referring to hashtags such as #capsulewardrobechallenge and #shopyourcloset, Cline knows and explains how the reader can “restyle and accessorize outfits to give them new life.” [1]
“The Art of More,” attempts to debunk the negative associations with thrifting, renting and reselling of clothes. Interviews with thredUP Founder and CEO James Reinhart explained the concept behind his online thrift store business while a Manhattan newspaper editor who rents clothes regularly paints a clear picture behind the benefits of these shopping alternatives as a consumer and business owner. Even so, Cline is aware of the “luxury lusting, logo-obsession, and the one-upmanship” [2] that can plague our everyday fashion life. She puts forth ways to adjust our buying habits, most clearly the one where she asks us to calculate the total amount of clothes bought from typical fast fashion shops, showing that it all adds up. The amount we spend towards the cheaper pile of clothes that will likely end up discarded by us could have been invested in a better-made piece that will last for years.
The fabric that makes up the clothes are dissected within "The Sustainable Fashion Handbook." This part included how the most common fibers (such as cotton and polyester) are made and what sort of chemicals should be avoided. I learned about the pros and cons of all materials, rather than seeking the "perfectly green fabric." [3] Cline also speaks with practitioners working at notable firms, such as Eileen Fisher, who explain the techniques adopted and incentives put forward to consumers in order to reduce the amount of waste accumulated from clothing production and consumption.
The fifth part of her book was my favorite. Within “Make It Last,” Cline guides us through tips and hacks towards the care we should place on the clothes we own. My creative side was ignited when I read Kate Sekules’ written and illustrated tutorial on the “Patchiko Patch.” The despair I felt noticing holes in my favorite pair of jeans is now met with excitement as I brainstorm ways I can mend and craft my garment to my taste.
Data and figures are clearly shown in published statistics in her References chapter. By highlighting the interviews covered, Cline clearly demonstrates how businesses, practitioners and consumers have – and successfully – put into action various alternatives to clothing consumption. Her book covers an overwhelming number of issues to consider from a consumer’s point-of-view. But, Cline’s structure in writing was accessible, as she broke down tasks and challenges into manageable steps. This gives the reader space to navigate the available resources and in turn, assess and re-organize our wardrobes.
“The real test now is whether The Conscious Closet will change – really change – how people approach shopping and the future of the fashion industry.”
I found myself noticing parts of the book that might seem repetitive to some readers. I believe though, that this repetition is necessary. For example, Sarah Kent’s article on Business of Fashion points out the rapid growth of the industry [4] and the slow progression “among larger companies…[that] need to figure out how to build more systemic changes into the way they operate.” [5] Consumers need to constantly be made aware of fashion’s many environmental impacts and be informed of the alternative solutions.
The real test now is whether it will change – really change – one’s approach to shopping and the future of the fashion industry. I found it serendipitous when my inbox chimed with Business of Fashion’s most recent article: "It's Cool to be Sustainable. But It's Not Easy" as I was writing this review. Cline was open and honest about the difficulties and challenges that people will face when they alter their wardrobes and habits, even to the point of describing her own journey within the last part of her book. She is aware of the hard work we all have to put in (whether as consumers, practitioners or fashion students) and was not afraid to address the questions that most skeptics will likely ask. What about the environmental impact of dry cleaning and the air and vehicle shipping done by rental companies? Can everyone afford to take part in building their conscious closet? How can the fashion industry survive in the long-run by being sustainable AND profitable at the same time? It was refreshing as a reader who is well aware of the trips I’ve made to fashion fashion shops on a whim when to hear Cline admit that there are no “perfectly ethical or sustainable clothing choice or closet.” [6] The truth is, we live in a reality that “is too complex and multifaceted.” [7] I believe though, that Cline’s book will be one of few successful works that will have readers (both fashion industry experts and novices alike) engaged. The structure and the tone of her book gave room to learn the facts about the clothing industry without feeling like I’ve been bombarded. I was excited when I came across the mending and crafting tutorials within Chapter 24, remembering the joy I felt when I took part in craft club as a child. The social media threads and hashtags the author refers to can give younger generations ideas to consider and strategies to talk about building a better and more conscious wardrobe. Cline got the balance right.
Regardless of whether you work in fashion, or are someone who wants to change their shopping habits for the better, you can build your conscious closet. And look good while you are at it.
Notes
[1] Elizabeth L. Cline, The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good, (USA: Plume, 2019), p 55.
[2] Ibid., p 147.
[3] Ibid., p 162.
[4] According to Kent’s article, “Clothing production is expected to hit 102 million tons by 2030.” https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/fashions-sustainability-efforts-are-stalling (accessed July 19th, 2019).
[5] Sarah Kent, “Fashion’s Sustainability Efforts are Stalling.” Business of Fashion, May 7th, 2019. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/fashions-sustainability-efforts-are-stalling (accessed July 19th, 2019).
[6] Elizabeth L. Cline, p 310.
[7] Ibid.
