Wedged between the Roaring Twenties and Dior’s New Look of 1949, the 1930s is quite often a decade eclipsed in popular fashion history. Now the subject of the Fashion and Textile Museum’s exhibition, Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs is the museum’s unofficial sequel to its 2017 exhibition, 1920s Jazz Age: Fashion and Photographs.
“You know what we did one time? I can’t believe it… we invented bell-bottoms,” the innkeeper admitted, shaking his head and laughing. It was startling to hear, even from Carlo Casini, a natural raconteur with a long career as a serial entrepreneur in the storied Monte Argentario peninsula of Tuscany.
Charles James, the late, great, twentieth-century couturier, truly was an unreasonable man. But while Michèle Gerber Klein’s biography conveys its titular point well, it is not necessarily the book’s main takeaway.
An extension of the way Études muses on the significance of banal objects and cultural phenomena when they are taken out of context, When Études Become Form is a phenomenological study of Études itself, incorporating interviews with collaborative artists and process-intensive works which expound on the nature of close study.
On a cool New Year’s Day in Bhujodi village, Kutch district in Gujarat, I started weaving my first length of fabric after four days of preparing the warp, starching, bobbin winding and joining. Before starting a new warp, a puja (act of worship) is performed to bless the loom and pray that the weaving will go well. The day was an especially auspicious one, being the first of the new year.