On a cool New Year’s Day in Bhujodi village, Kutch district in Gujarat, I started weaving my first length of fabric after four days of preparing the warp, starching, bobbin winding and joining. Before starting a new warp, a puja (act of worship) is performed to bless the loom and pray that the weaving will go well. The day was an especially auspicious one, being the first of the new year.
The Fashion Studies Journal Research Grant supported my participation in the 2018 Interdisciplinary Nineteenth-Century Studies Association (INCS) supernumerary conference “Measure and Excess” held at Roma Tre University in Italy. The INCS convention is one of the most prestigious international meetings in the field of nineteenth-century literary and cultural studies.
Transformable fashion is an umbrella term for any clothing item designed so that its appearance can be easily altered, either by the wearer or by a specialized service provider.
Based on the exhibition of 2016 at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne and curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, Viktor & Rolf: Fashion Artists 25 Years investigates the duo’s conception of “wearable art.”
The exhibition argues that a singular DNA weaves its way through these two branches of Margiela’s creative career, reconciling the apparent disjuncture between Margiela’s identity as a rebel against the fashion system and a designer for one of French fashion’s most patrimonial houses.